View source for Stitch'n Fold B2000

{{Machine
|brand=ISP
|machine_type=Booklet maker
|process=Binding
|product_number=B2000
|status=Active
}}
The Stitch'n Fold B2000 is a type of booklet maker. It has a side jog plus full length tape feed, and uses wire to make the staples.

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Anemone booklet maker stitch n fold b2000 with biome 1 nurture melt zine being assembled.jpg
</gallery>


== Specifications ==
{| class="wikitable"
! Paper size
| Min. 4.75" × 8.5" Max. 12.5" × 18" (also: A5 to A3)
|- 
! Booklet size
| <p>4.25" × 5.5", 5.5" × 8.5", 8.5" × 11", 4.75" × 4.75 "CD", and metric sizes</p><p>''All booklets with or without trim stock on one or three sides.''</p>
|-
! Stitching area
| <p>5.5" on 8.5" or 11" tall books</p><p>2.75" on 5.5" tall books</p>
|-
! Speed
| Up to 2,300 booklets per hour (any size)
|-
! Capacity
| 2 to 25 sheets of 20# bond (8 to 100 page book)
|-
! Re-load
| 65,000 booklets per spool of wire
|-
! Weight
| 235 lbs
|-
! Dimensions
| 25" H × 21" W × 52" D
|-
! Footprint
| 16.25" × 22.5"
|}

== Maintenance ==

=== Cleaning the rollers ===
Using a sacrificial outer sheet or waiting for the ink on the covers to dry can help avoid ink buildup on the rollers. To access the lower rollers, remove the entire delivery table and clean from the outside of the machine. 

=== Replacing the rollers ===
Replacement rollers can be manufactured for ~$100 per roller, from shops which service letterpress or typerwiter rollers/platens.<ref>"We found a rubber roller manufacturer within a reasonable distance. They had someone visit the studio to look at the rollers, and invoiced us 400 total (99 per roller). We did the removal of the rollers prior to their visit for easy handoff. Once they gave the refreshed rollers back we installed ourselves." — [[BearBear]]</ref>

The rollers are connected to plastic blocks with springs holding them in tension.

* Turn off and unplug the machine
* Remove the two large metal front/back covers (4 screws each—2 inside the top edge, 2 below).
* Take photos beforehand as a reminder as to where everything sits and number the plastic blocks that the rollers are mounted to so they can be matched back up. Also note the different spring types and sizes.
* Loosening tension on the timing chains from the areas where those plastic blocks are—the chains do not need to be fully removed.
* Use allen keys to loosen the set screws in gears on the ends of the roller shafts. This may be difficult and might require penetrating oil to help loosen them, or a gear/bearing puller.
* Once those are loose, start wiggling those gears out and carefully remove the blocks and springs. Be careful as there is tension with those springs and they’ll do their best to fly away. This might require some problem solving on removal/re-entry. 
* Once the gears and blocks are removed, slide the rollers out.
* Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly—be especially cautious when replacing the springs.

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