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<ol start="3"><li>Remove the "pressure spring" (largest spring visible) on the back left side of this area.<ul><li>On machines with adjustable density, the spring should already be fairly loose (test mode <code>908</code> raised up the lower hook of the spring to remove tension on it).</li><li>On machines which do not have adjustable density (or if the maintenance positioning test mode wasn't run) <u>the pressure lever will have to be lowered manually</u> before the spring can be removed.</li></ul></li></ol> | <ol start="3"><li>Remove the "pressure spring" (largest spring visible) on the back left side of this area.<ul><li>On machines with adjustable density, the spring should already be fairly loose (test mode <code>908</code> raised up the lower hook of the spring to remove tension on it).</li><li>On machines which do not have adjustable density (or if the maintenance positioning test mode wasn't run) <u>the pressure lever will have to be lowered manually</u> before the spring can be removed.</li></ul></li></ol> | ||
{{mbox|title=Manual lowering of the pressure lever|text={{Warning|The pressure spring is under a great deal of tension, and it can be dangerous to remove it by force, without first lowering the pressure lever. Use caution in these steps to avoid having the spring snap out or pinch hands/tools.}} The pressure lever and spring are the mechanism which raise the pressure roller up to the surface of the drum when printing. As the lever is lowered (rotating counter-clockwise as viewed from the back), the pressure roller raises up to the drum, pressed up with force from the pressure spring). As it is raised, the pressure roller lowers (this happens as the clamp passes under the drum with every rotation.<p>The pressure lever is held in place with a small hook (the "solenoid lever"), beneath it to the left—<u>this hook cannot just be pulled out while the spring is pulling on the pressure lever, or the lever will snap down rapidly</u>. The proper method of removal is as follows.</p><ol><li>Brace one hand on the top of the main drive cover (the middle metal "cage" with all the triangular cutouts), and with the thumb, lift up the tab at the top end of the pressure roller. In this way the technician is holding/managing all the force of the spring, not the hook.</li><li>While the force is being held, with the other hand, pull the hook out to the left (with the pressure lever manually lifted up, there should no longer be any force on the hook).</li><li>With the hook held out of the way, slowly lower the pressure lever, removing the tension on the spring.</li><li>Once the spring is hanging loosely, remove it.</li></ol><gallery class="center" widths=" | {{mbox|title=Manual lowering of the pressure lever|text={{Warning|The pressure spring is under a great deal of tension, and it can be dangerous to remove it by force, without first lowering the pressure lever. Use caution in these steps to avoid having the spring snap out or pinch hands/tools.}} The pressure lever and spring are the mechanism which raise the pressure roller up to the surface of the drum when printing. As the lever is lowered (rotating counter-clockwise as viewed from the back), the pressure roller raises up to the drum, pressed up with force from the pressure spring). As it is raised, the pressure roller lowers (this happens as the clamp passes under the drum with every rotation.<p>The pressure lever is held in place with a small hook (the "solenoid lever"), beneath it to the left—<u>this hook cannot just be pulled out while the spring is pulling on the pressure lever, or the lever will snap down rapidly</u>. The proper method of removal is as follows.</p><ol><li>Brace one hand on the top of the main drive cover (the middle metal "cage" with all the triangular cutouts), and with the thumb, lift up the tab at the top end of the pressure roller. In this way the technician is holding/managing all the force of the spring, not the hook.</li><li>While the force is being held, with the other hand, pull the hook out to the left (with the pressure lever manually lifted up, there should no longer be any force on the hook).</li><li>With the hook held out of the way, slowly lower the pressure lever, removing the tension on the spring.</li><li>Once the spring is hanging loosely, remove it.</li></ol><gallery class="center" widths="450" heights="450" style="margin-top: 1em;"> | ||
File:Pressure_Diagram_01.jpg|The 3 relevant parts of the pressure system. The pressure lever is marked in {{ink chip|Orchid}} and the hook (or "solenoid lever") is marked in {{ink chip|Sunflower}}. | File:Pressure_Diagram_01.jpg|The 3 relevant parts of the pressure system. The pressure lever is marked in {{ink chip|Orchid}} and the hook (or "solenoid lever") is marked in {{ink chip|Sunflower}}. | ||
</gallery>}} | </gallery>}} | ||
| Shock absorber replacement | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | Expert |
| Duration | 60 minutes |
| For series | Some one-drum Z+Any machine released with or after the RZ line, i.e. RZ/RV/EZ/EV/SF/SE and MZ/ME/MF/MH machines. machines |
| Tools | JIS phillips #2 screwdriver Metric hex wrenches |
| Parts | 046-15009 1 × Shock absorber046-15008 1 × Shock absorber bracket (if not already installed) |
This is the draft of an article, it is incomplete or in-progress.
You can help by contributing to missing sections, editing existing material, or helping to migrate this page from linked sources.
On some models of one-drum Z+Any machine released with or after the RZ line, i.e. RZ/RV/EZ/EV/SF/SE and MZ/ME/MF/MH machines. machines, a small black rubber shock absorber helps soften the impact of the pressure lever (used to move the pressure roller up and down for each rotation of the drum. Over time, the shock absorber wears down—when it is fully deteriorated the riso can no longer be used for printing. The symptoms of this issue are different depending on if the pressure roller is stuck in the up position or the down position.
The shock absorber can be replaced, but it is a difficult task which involves partially disassembling the main drive of the risograph, in the back of the machine.
A worn shock absorber (in its holder) and a new one. Often by the time of printing failure, there is little or nothing left of the rubber absorber itself.
Not all one-drum Z+Any machine released with or after the RZ line, i.e. RZ/RV/EZ/EV/SF/SE and MZ/ME/MF/MH machines. machines use a shock absorber—all ![]()
models do, but only some
machines have it. Known models which use a shock absorber are as follows:
| EZ200 | EZ201 | EZ220 | EZ221 | EZ230 | EZ231 | |
| EZ300 | EZ301 | EZ330 | EZ331 | EZ370 | EZ371 | |
| EZ390 | EZ391 | EZ570 | EZ571 | EZ590 | EZ591 |
| RZ970 | RZ977 | RZ990 | RZ997 | RZ1070 | RZ1090 |
| SF5030 | SF5130 | SF5230 | SF5330 | SF5350 | SF5430 | |
| SF5450 | SF9350 | SF9450 | SF9490 |
Older
machines sometimes have an older model of shock absorber installed, which was adhered to a small rounded plate, rather than held within a mounting bracket, as the new ones are. These older shock absorbers are no longer available as replacement parts, however the new mounting bracket is interchangeable, after which the new shock absorbers can be used. If a machine does not have the mounting bracket (part no. 046-15008) it will need to be acquired along with the shock absorber (part no. 046-15009) before the repair can be made.
The easiest way to confirm the diagnosis of a deteriorated shock absorber is to look for the black rubber debris which will collect on the base plate in the back of the riso, beneath where the shock absorber is mounted. This can be seen just by removing the back cover of the risograph (4 screws) (though it is easier to see if the circuit board panels are opened up as well—by removing the screws marked with arrows on the brackets).
The back of the machine, with the area to check highlighted.
Rubber fragments from the damaged shock absorber.
First the riso must be setup so that access to shock absorber area is a little easier—then all work will be done with the riso off and unplugged. After replacement, proper calibration of the pressure lever should be checked.
0 or 0000.908 + START and waiting for the test to end (about 5 seconds, will finish with a beep).The 4 screws holding on the back cover.
In this model—an
5130—each PCB bracket is held on with 4 screws.
908 raised up the lower hook of the spring to remove tension on it).The pressure lever is held in place with a small hook (the "solenoid lever"), beneath it to the left—this hook cannot just be pulled out while the spring is pulling on the pressure lever, or the lever will snap down rapidly. The proper method of removal is as follows.