This is the draft of an article, it is incomplete or in-progress.
You can help by contributing to missing sections, editing existing material, or helping to migrate this page from linked sources.
Robertbaxter (talk | contribs) No edit summary |
Robertbaxter (talk | contribs) No edit summary |
||
| Line 9: | Line 9: | ||
}} | }} | ||
There are many reasons a drum may need to be opened—to repair an issue, clean out old ink, transition to a new color, etc. This article outlines the common processes in disassembly, testing/cleaning, and reassembly, but ''does not outline specific maintenance'' (i.e. correcting the [[squeegee gap]], etc.)—those are separated out into their own tutorials. | There are many reasons a drum may need to be opened—to repair an issue, clean out old ink, transition to a new color, etc. This article outlines the ''common processes'' in disassembly, testing/cleaning, and reassembly, but ''does not outline specific maintenance'' (i.e. correcting the [[squeegee gap]], etc.)—those are separated out into their own tutorials. | ||
{{Warning|<p>The golden rule of drum repair is: <u>only go as far as necessary, and no further</u>.</p><p>Drum repair is inherently dangerous to the riso.</p><ul><li>Misassembling a drum and trying to print with it can result in totalling the drum and damaging the riso itself.</li><li>Many of the individual components in the drum are quite delicate.</li><li>The process is arduous and messy, and it's easy to make mistakes when fatigued or working alone (''ask for help'').</li></ul><p>Doing as little as possible on drums is a good way of limiting the potential for error.</p>}} | {{Warning|<p>The golden rule of drum repair is: <u>only go as far as necessary, and no further</u>.</p><p>Drum repair is inherently dangerous to the riso.</p><ul><li>Misassembling a drum and trying to print with it can result in totalling the drum and damaging the riso itself.</li><li>Many of the individual components in the drum are quite delicate.</li><li>The process is arduous and messy, and it's easy to make mistakes when fatigued or working alone (''ask for help'').</li></ul><p>Doing as little as possible on drums is a good way of limiting the potential for error.</p>}} | ||
This is the draft of an article, it is incomplete or in-progress.
You can help by contributing to missing sections, editing existing material, or helping to migrate this page from linked sources.
This article is awaiting migration from either the old wiki or elsewhere. Its sources (including archived versions of the original pages) are available here:
You can help by rewriting the linked articles into wiki format for this page (preserving them as sources using <ref>...</ref> tags) and then removing this message. Migration notes may be available on the wiki roadmap.
| Drum repair (Z+) | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | Expert |
| Duration | ½–3 hours |
| For series | Z+Any machine released with or after the RZ line, i.e. RZ/RV/EZ/EV/SF/SE and MZ/ME/MF/MH machines. |
| Tools | JIS phillips #2 screwdriver 4 in (100 mm) zip ties Clear packing tape Doublestick tape Solvent Isopropyl alcohol Gloves Rags |
There are many reasons a drum may need to be opened—to repair an issue, clean out old ink, transition to a new color, etc. This article outlines the common processes in disassembly, testing/cleaning, and reassembly, but does not outline specific maintenance (i.e. correcting the squeegee gap, etc.)—those are separated out into their own tutorials.
The golden rule of drum repair is: only go as far as necessary, and no further.
Drum repair is inherently dangerous to the riso.
Doing as little as possible on drums is a good way of limiting the potential for error.
Before opening a drum it's important to create a plan of attack—to determine how much disassembly is required. A lot of assessment can be done before opening up a drum—both how it is functioning (1) mechanically, and (2) electrically.